Thursday, September 21, 2017

EXPLORING JUNEAU, ALASKA

September 9-11, 2017



The first day and a half of the cruise was on open high seas from Seattle to Juneau. It found many passengers feeling out of sorts with motion sickness in rougher waters.  Day 3 reaching the Inside Passage, the waters smoothed out and the first port of call arrived at Juneau. Having a set of hiking poles along really helped maintain balance for my sea legs thank goodness.





One of the best ways to explore a new place for us is to walk—to meander up and down the main drag, sleepy streets or undiscovered back alleys. 
Avoiding the souvenir shops along the waterfront pier and Main Street we opted to do a self-guided walk about on our own to see the State Capital building. 


We were surprised to find that the Alaska State Capital is open for the public to walk around. Visitors are able to see the senators' and representatives' offices and the respective meeting chambers. There are historical photos on each of the fivefloor hallway walls worth seeing for the curiosity. The Capital is just a short walk from the pier and it is literally right in the middle of town. Not much to see as it is a working office building but worth the time to swing by and see on your way to other museums such as the State Museum or Governor’s mansion nearby.


 




 Popping in at the Native Indian Cultural Center featured artifacts of the Haida, Tlingit and Tsimshian native tribes.

Because of its ideal location between the base of Mount Juneau and the Gastineau Channel, the Southeastern Alaskan city of Juneau has been the home of Native American fisherman, European fur traders, and American gold prospectors. 
Now a free-spirited state capital, Juneau tends to be the perfect base for a journey into the gorgeous Alaskan wilderness, whether it's for fishing, kayaking, and dog sledding in the National Parks, whale-watching at Icy Strait, or glacier hiking at the Juneau Ice field. However, the only way to get to Juneau is by plane, ferry or ship, there are no roads leading to this coastal port town. Everything comes by a barge or ferry so cargo containers line the pier.

Wednesday, September 20, 2017

CRUISING IN GLACIER BAY NATIONAL PARK

 September 12, 2017

This is by far the highlight destination for any cruise to Alaska if you are lucky to see it in good weather like us. We were blown away with one of the few days where the weather was absolutely perfect with crystal clear blue skies. It is a remote wilderness preserve that can only be reached by seaplane or ship. Glacier Bay National Park encompasses a marine wilderness with glaciers, fjords, mountain ranges and ocean coastline.   Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve is a vast area of southeast Alaska’s Inside Passage, a coastal route plied by cruise ships and other vessels. Stretching north of the town of Gustavus, the bay is flanked by high peaks, including Mount Fairweather,advancing and retreating glaciers like the huge Grand Pacific Glacier. Bartlett Cove is the park headquarters and entrance starting point for forest and riverside trails.
Wildlife sightings off in the distance spotted from the ship included humpback whales spouting blowhole mist as moments later tail flukes rose, mountain goats placing strong footholds on high rugged mountains peak, occasional shorebirds 




 


 


and a rare bald eagle feeding on fish. Otherwise the rugged mountain range appeared sparse of wildlife visible to the naked eye otherwise, However park rangers and field study naturalist have seen small and large mammals in the lower alpine forests surrounding Glacier Bay below the rugged peaks.

Wild, Resilient, and Sacred

From the bottom of the deepest glacial fiord to the summit of its highest peak, Glacier Bay encompasses some of our continent's most amazing scenery and wilderness. It is a land reborn, a world returning to life, a living lesson in resilience. If ever we needed a place to intrigue and inspire us, this is it. Glacier Bay is a homeland, a living laboratory, a national park, a designated wilderness, a biosphere reserve, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It's a marine park, where great adventure awaits kayakers with backcountry permits to explore into inlets, coves and hideaway harbors in the entrance to the Bay. It's also a land park, with its snow-capped mountains, spectacular glaciers, and emerald–green forests.

Between July 1-Oct 1 only cruise ships are allowed in the upbay channel inlets. Private vessels and kayaks are restricted due to navigational hazards. Icebergs break free from the mouth of glaciers licking the sea, explode ice particles and float like marshmallows within minutes as tidal waters pack in swells.  

Two park rangers were brought out by a national park vessel from Bartlett Cove (the entrance to Glacier Bay) to transfer aboard the cruise ship. They each had to climb a rope ladder at 6:00 a.m. lowered over the side of the ship in order to get on board as interpretative naturalists for the day. What national park ranger wouldn’t pass up that opportunity and a free lunch on a cruise ship for a day of work? Climbing up a rope ladder meant also climbing down a ladder for a return pickup later in the day. How cool is that as part of a Glacier Bay National Park ranger’s job huh.

The captain of the Eurodam navigated the ship sixty-five miles up the West Arm of Glacier Bay into two inlets for spectacular scenic views of glacial movement. Passengers stood in awe watching the Margerie Glacier and the John Hopkins Glacier gigantic tongues of ice each stretch out to lick the sea.
We all waited and watched up on deck in anticipation for glacier crevasses to snap and pop. Suddenly, a split, crack, crash, the caving of massive ice chunks broke loose thundering into the icy waters

.



Hundreds of harbor seal pups had just been born over the late weeks in August on the John Hopkins Glacier. Some pups were seen floating on small icebergs. The weather was incredibly breathtaking with its sunny clear blue skies and white cumulous puffy clouds above the rugged snow packed peaks. We couldn’t have asked for a more perfect day.



The scenery of snow-capped mountains on the Fairweather Range, the low line forests, tributary inlets, coves and small islands along the narrow channel of the upbay and downbay of Glacier Bay are indeed something truly beautiful and inspiring to behold. 

As the ship slowly turned to head back down the long West Arm of Glacier Bay, off in the distance my camera caught a glimpse of remains of the Grand Pacific Glacier, which three hundred years ago once covered the 65-mile fiord stretch deep in thousands of feet of ice before its dynamic glacial movement filled Glacier Bay. It stood like a disappearing dinosaur struggling for its last breath in the tar pits. 


There was a feeling of sadness in my heart and I could almost hear the echo of its moans and groans. How could something so grand for centuries as a monument of ice have advanced and retreated on our planet, faster than the many glaciers that once reigned during the Ice Age Period?


Then I looked out on Glacier Bay and all its beauty as the sun glistened off its water and I understood. There is a purpose and a plan in all things that unfold in life…Birth, Death, and Rebirth is Life. The song of the Grand Pacific Glacier’s snow-packed ice gave rise to the waters of Glacier Bay. In the tidal water changes I knew she had been reborn and I could hear her singing and lapping in the wind.





Glacier Bay can be best summed up as:

     A place Tlingit elders told of an ancestral homeland covered once in ice. For the Tlingit, Glacier Bay is woven into the tapestry of their lives as native people have lived in surrounding forest settlements for thousands of years.
     
                                                       A place wild, resilient, sacred

                                     

A place that offers human solitude and a remote wilderness that is rapidly
                               disappearing in today's world.
     A place of hope--for the continued wisdom, restraint, and humility 
       to preserve            ... a sample of wild America, the world as it was.
     A place that is part of one of the largest internationally protected Biosphere Reserves in the world, and recognized by the United Nations as a World Heritage Site (UNESCO)


                 A place of awe and wonder for one’s bucket list to must see in his or her lifetime

MEANDERING IN SITKA, ALASKA


 September 13, 2017

From Glacier Bay to Sitka by ship on the Inside Passage takes about 14 hours.
Sitka is an Alaskan city and borough near Juneau, the state capital. It's spread over Baranof Island, part of Chichagof Island and others. Founded in 1799 by Russian settler and fur trappers, Sitka was the capital of the Russian fur trading empire that once reached to Fort Ross in northern California. Sitka was known as Fort Archangel for 68 years. It was part of Russia until 1867.
St. Michael’s Orthodox Cathedral is topped with an onion shaped dome. The 1842 Russian Bishop’s House is nearby. Sitka National Historical Park is the site of Russia’s defeat of the indigenous Tlingit people and has a trail dotted with totem poles.

Upon arrival we were transported from the ship’s pier by an old school bus that shuttled us 7 miles to the heart of Sitka. In town were the typical shops to draw in tourists. Since cruise ships only come to port from May-September signs were posted 50%-75% on merchandise in shops. It becomes a shopping necca at the end of the cruise ship season each September.    This year, 2017, Sitka happened to be celebrating its150th-founding year..

We made a quick jaunt on foot to see St, Michael’s Church. The Cathedral is the prime landmark of the town.  The original church had burnt down by fire in 1967 and been rebuilt, Thus the exterior did not have the feeling of being an old town church. However, inside St. Michael’s Russian Orthodox Church, an unobtrusive, worn down, and benignly neglected church, we discovered a collection of priceless Russian religious art and icons dating back centuries.
 




 The relics and artifacts were amazing and all were saved from the fire. Any place other than Sitka,Alaska these beautiful and historic items would be housed in a highly secure museum or cathedral. The building belies the beauty and historic value of the amazing religious art that it contains. It might have been easily dismissed had we come upon throngs of onlookers crowded inside the church. It contains amazing, priceless relics, icons, and art that cannot be seen anywhere else. 


We strolled to the marina and next made our way to a Haida clan house.
 Not open we moved uphill to capture photos of a Russian old fort blockhouse defense building and a historical site for Sitka’s first native Indian bishop.

Other passengers had been off
on pricey excursions taking in bald eagles at the Alaskan Raptor Center, Fortress of the Bear, or Sitka Totem Park. Being 10 miles further away from the main part of town, our
 feet nor time didn’t avail packing those attractions into our morning. 



Glancing at the nearby Sitka homes in the cove

Boarding the gangway to the ship our feet were sore
from a good day's walkabout 


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