Monday, October 10, 2011

Grace, Gentility, and Great Oaks in Charleston, South Carolina

Deep in the South amidst old plantations, swamplands with oaks draped in Spanish moss, rare birds, turtles, and alligators, there has been lots to discover and history galore being taken in here.


 Long before Charleston gave birth to the Civil War at Fort Sumter this coastal port city enjoyed wealth unprecedented in America. Charleston rice planters reigned as landed aristocrats, while its shipping merchants amassed fortunes from slaves, rice, and cotton.
Middleton Place rebuilt after Union troops destroyed it
Visiting several Charleston plantations has revealed each one to be very different from the others. Middleton Place is one of the oldest formal landscaped gardens in America which began in 1741. 
It took 100 slaves 10 years to complete its landscaped terraces. Huge magnolia trees and fourteen hundred year old live oaks abound everywhere. Taking a horse carriage ride through the woodland area provided a good overview of life as it once was on this rice plantation. 
 














Several alligators basking in the sun at the edge of a pond only10 feet away brought us some excitement.
JR captures a smile
White Ibis
Magnolia Plantation with its 500 acre-acre estate contained 60 acres of incredible gardens with 900 varieties of camellias and 250 types of azaleas and hundreds of other flowering species. The Drayton Family for twelve generations since 1676 have added to making its gardens and surroundings one of the most beautiful landscapes in the country. 
Magnolia Planation House
Its Audubon Swamp Garden that encompasses acres of black water cypress and tupelo swamp was accessible by boardwalks, bridges, and dikes.There were opportunities for viewing waterfowl, more alligators and other wildlife.
Boone Hall Plantation below was primarily an indigo and cotton plantation long ago. It also produced bricks and tiles The current mansion, built in 1915 to resemble an antebellum house, contains plantation made bricks as well as woodwork and flooring from an earlier house.
Boone Hall is a living working planation farm today

Slave quarters for domestics and skilled craftsmen working at Boone Hall slept 8-16 per cabin
 Seeing its slave quarters, pecan and oak trees draped in Spanish moss, wetlands, working produce farm, and hearing a Gullah storyteller talk about her culture was a great way to experience the plantation.

Fort Sumter, where the first shots in the Civil War rang out, meant taking a ferry in Charleston Harbor over to the island’s national historic site. The Fort reduced in size after the Confederate bombardment on April 12, 1861 never was rebuilt. It has a battery bunker built in WWII standing in the center today.
 
Fort Sumter  with Battery Huger which serves as a museum



Time spent strolling down Charleston’s colorful tree-lined historic district streets, alleys, and gardens on a self-guided walking tour revealed the architectural legacy of sixty-five buildings and their hidden stories. We caught a glimpse of the old City Market and one of the Slave Marts. Our feet tired out from so much walking, but it was a great way to get a feel for the pulse and heartbeat of the city.


Rainbow Row was renovated in colorful Caribbean colors from being a slum after the Civil War

Talking an hour carriage ride certainly became a much easier way to travel on another day. Charleston is a celebration of history, culture, and lowcountry charm. From watching Gullah folks weaving their sweet grass baskets to lunch tasting she crab soup, shrimp and grits, and key lime pie, it would be easy to continue on about this most unique and delightful city.

Oh, and let’s not forget the enduring appeal of those alligators either.
Anyone for alligator wrestling?