GOOD TIMES IN MONTANA’S BIG SKY COUNTRY

The Missouri River flows across the entire state of Montana

It is no wonder with more than 94 million acres of land and less than a million residents, Montana boasts more scenic views and wildlife than people. There is a renown beauty that is unspoiled and stretches for miles allowing one to venture off the beaten path. It is a far cry from busy city life, traffic congestion, and billboards.

Although those seeking a bit of culture would enjoy a visit to tour the beautiful State Capitol Building in Helena. Situated against the foothills of the Rocky Mountains, the Capitol commands a panoramic view of Helena Valley. Its rotunda is designed with French Renaissance styling, hollow scagliola columns of plaster technique mimicking marble, Tennessee marble wainscoting, and a frescoed dome.

 A Grand Staircase balcony overlooked by the arched stain glass skylight ceiling above is impressive.  Just above the staircase landing at the south end of the barrel vault rests Amedee Joullin’s Driving the Golden Spike  painting documenting the completion of the Northern Pacific Railroad’s transcontinental line at Gold Creek, Montana in 1883 with President Ulysess Grant.

Charles M. Russell’s painting Lewis and Clark Meeting Indians at Ross’ Hole dominates the House of Representative chamber. Valued at $60 million today, the scene depicts the intrepid explorers Meriwether and Clark with Sacajawea and her baby Jean Baptise at daybreak meeting the Salish Indians in the Sula Basin in southwestern Montana in September 1805. It is said that the huge canvas, nearly 25’ by 12’, was so large that the roof of Russell’s log studio had to be raised to accommodate for painting the mural. We were so inspired by this masterpiece that later on in our travels we drove 64 miles north in the Jeep one day to Great Falls, MT to check out the Charles M. Russell Museum, log studio, and home. 
Russell (1864-1926) created over 4000 art paintings, sculptures, drawings, illustrations and personal illustrated letters and poetry through his lifetime. His subjects were based on Western history and his own creative imagination or experience, including cowboys, Plains Indians, and wildlife. As an artist he brought the Old West to life capturing the spirit and culture of the West during the late 1800s and early 1900s.

Many of his paintings are on display at the Montana State Capitol Building, Buffalo Bill Museum in Cody, Wyoming, and the Smithsonian National Art Gallery. Russell’s Log Cabin Studio built in 1903 made of western red cedar poles sits adjacent to his two-story blue home, 

The studio is filled with authentic cowboy gear and Indian artifacts Russell used as he painted or sculpted. Viewing the studio setting, with all his artist materials in place, where he created many of his significant works was a rare treat. 

A flock of Canadian geese were wading on one of the river gravel bars as we return to camp that late afternoon.

A beautiful handmade dry fly displayed at a Fly Shop

The primary purpose of the trip to Montana has been to visit along both the Madison and Missouri river valleys which is paradise for anglers and wildlife naturalists. It provides the perfect setting to step out of bounds. Spending a week camping along the Missouri River near Wolf Creek has given JR a chance to revisit and share one of his favorite fly fishing spots. 

He is very much of a purist “catch and release” person although Christa has always felt it might be nice once in awhile to bring a fish home to cook.

JR  can readily name the various dry flies in his own personal collection

Well she managed reeling in her very first rainbow trout ever. Christa was able to learn what “the thrill of a catch” is all about. In the process of catching the fish she also discovered when a fish hook isn't set  fast enough at its mouth than a fish will swallowed the hook too deep. Another fisherman provided us a tool to help undo the deep hook, but by that time her beautiful 18” trout started to belly up and die. There was nothing else to do, but keep the fish at that point. 

JR cleaned and gutted  it right at the river. Back in camp he filleted and deboned the fish, sprinkled salt and pepper on, and tossed it over the hot fire pit grill for 15 minutes. Yummy, yummy… it was indeed the best and freshest fish we have ever eaten. Another day she hooked a 10” wall-eye white fish which became successfully released safely back into the river. Now that’s JR’s kind of mountain woman.

At Holter Dam Campground near Wolf Creek along the Missouri River there has been lots of opportunity to watch wildlife. A herd of mountain sheep roam the nearby cliffs. cottontail rabbits scurry hither and thither , elk, deer, and horses graze and roam free, white pelicans nest and flock along the river. blue damselflies and butterflies flutter in the bushes.

 Canadian geese, hairy woodpeckers, and spotted chested robins , osprey, and eagles soar about

... and of course the Montana summer evening skies usually bring some more delight. 

CELEBRATING LOGGER DAYS IN DARBY, MONTANA

A quaint settlement amongst the spectacular Bitterroot Mountains of western Montana, the Town of Darby is a picturesque and charming place. It is perhaps near or within some of the best recreational landscape of the whole country. Darby and the Bitterroot Valley are full of wildlife and offer endless recreational opportunities for outdoor enthusiasts.

 We tracked down former Berkeley Yacht Club acquaintances Ken and Gina Coleman who retired to Darby, Montana seven years ago and enjoyed a wonderful visit with them. These folks once owned Fog City (a 46 foot sailboat) and circumnavigated the globe for six years. Later on 

they purchased three acres in Darby, settled down and had a beautiful custom log home built. The house, designed with floor to ceiling windows and a grand porch, overlooks the Bitterroot River flowing directly off the backside of the house. It holds the best of what Montana is about and is definitely a little piece of paradise along with their warm hospitality.

 Sitting outside on their riverside porch sharing stories together, we were entertained by drift boats floating down stream, bald eagles catching fish, a small deer feeding in the grass across the river bank, and assorted birds fluttering amongst the trees.    

If there is an event that embodies all that Montana stands for Darby Loggger Days is it. The town came alive with a parade and timber competition event not to miss! 

Everyone loves the Logger Days Parade on Main Street in Darby, Montana

The laid back atmosphere of this fun and family oriented weekend drew hundreds of enthusiastic onlookers and expert timber competitors. 

Women loggers often out compete men 

Darby Logger Days celebrates the skill and bravery of those who work in the time honored tradition of logging. Along with the Colemans we watched seventeen traditional logging competitions scheduled, including axe throwing, pole climbing, log rolling and cross cut sawing.  

Pole climbing event to ring a bell on top and slide back down for the fastest time.

Log relays over the pond are dicey and many get wet...

Log rolling means dumping one's opponent into the water

Chopping in two lumberjack steps to climb up before splitting a log on top is another challenging competition.

 An evening  in the community park listening to a local western band sing and play at the Strawberry Festival wrapped up the grand weekend in Darby. 

MEANDERING THROUGH SOUTHWEST MONTANA

Testing a 5 weight,  nine foot carbon fiber fly fishing rod on the casting field outside on the lawn at the Winston Fly Rod Factory convinced JR he needed to add one to his ménage of fishing gear. Twenty miles and fifteen minutes down the road at Four Bridges Angler Shop in Dillion, Montana  he acquired the same size Winston fly rod  for the tune of $725. Because there is no state sales tax  in Montana he boasted over the fact that he had saved $80. This new rod has become his prize possession amongst all his other fishing rods.

The next two hours in Montana we picked up Hwy 15 northbound and turned west following the Beaver Head River passing through the quaint towns of Virginia City, Nevada City, and Sheridan. Between the valley of Wise River and Wisdom the rig climbed through beautiful scenic country in elevation. 

Near the peak we pull off at a turnout and dry camped for the night. A lovely sunset illuminated the Big Sky clouds in heavenly vibrant colors. 

In the morning the sunrise filtering through a blanket of mist at the peak was rather surreal. Once the fog lifted we made our way west along Big Hole River Valley to the Big Hole National Battlefield of 1877. 

Upon arrival we lent a hand with a park ranger and several others to erect a tipi that is set up each morning in commemoration of the Nez Perce Indians. 

The historic landmark site of the 1877 war between the Nez Perce and 7^th U.S. Infantry supported in battle by the Bitterroot Volunteers is an informative and sad place. Big Hole is a powerful reminder of man's inhumanity to man. A magnificent testimony to state racism & bigotry in the face of economic gain by early white men. All Americans should know the story of the flight of the Nez Perce Tribe and its tragic consequences at this bucolic site.

JR decided upon leaving the Big Hole National Monument that it was time to hook the rig up for a triple tow. This may seem crazy, but state law says it is perfectly legal if one is under 70 feet in length. We just have to be cautious and make wide turns at corner intersections... Whew!