SEDONA’S RED ROCK COUNTRY

Returning one hundred and ten miles south of the Grand Canyon to the Red Rock Country of Sedona has become the last hurrah of our Southwest fall journey. An afternoon spent at Red Rock State Park here hiking the trails to House of the Apache and Cathedral Rock vista overlooks was amazing. A short hike along a dirt trail paralleling a stream got us to Buddha Beach where rocks were stacked into cairns and to a flat red rock area considered to be part of Cathedral Rock vortex.

A photographer set the standard for capturing red rock reflections in the stream. 

Cathedral Rock

If you only have time for one cultural site while ever in Sedona, the Chapel of the Holy Cross should be it. This stunning church -- designed by sculptor Marguerite Brunswig Staude (a student of architect Frank Lloyd Wright) in the 1950s -- protrudes from the red cliffs as an amazing feat.  Across from the Chapel down the road is a palatial home owned by the fellow who invented Lasik surgery. 

Afternoon sunlight on Sedona's cliffs

If you need a break from the trails, swap out those hiking boots for something more fetching and head to the Tlaquepaque Arts and Crafts Village. This sizable outdoor shopping center is designed in the style of a traditional Mexican village. The stucco walls house a variety of art galleries, New Age shops and restaurants, while the cobblestone streets and mosaic fountains provide a charming, old-fashioned atmosphere.

Sedona's visitors often hear talk of vortexes, which are cyclones of energy that come directly from the earth and can be felt by those in their presence. These vortexes are represented by the uniquely shaped rock formations believed to emit energy. All the hype about Sedona vortexes intrigued us to drive up to Airport Mesa overlooking the city below for a breathtaking view.  It made for a majestic scene of grandeur before heading home to California. The Red Rocks are gorgeous, but after Monument Valley and the Grand Canyon - well, its all degrees of stunning really.

The real surprises came when two javelina pigs crossed the Red Rock Loop Road as the sun was setting and the sky had a small burst of colored light refracting an aura.

GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK

Welcome to a world of wonder. They say the Grand Canyon in Arizona isn’t just spectacular--- It’s one of the seven natural wonders of the world, along with Mount Everest in Nepal, Victoria Falls in Zambia/Zimbabwe, Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, the Northern Lights, Paricutin Volcano in Mexico and Harbor of Rio de Janeiro in Brazil. 

The 277-mile long, one-mile deep canyon covers a total of 1,903 square miles. Its history began billions of years with geologic forces ever shaping and redefining its constant changes. Five different Native American tribes presently occupy the region--- Hopi, Navajo, Havasupai, Pauite, and Hualapai. 

The little bears enjoying an overlook of the canyon

Yippie, time to snow dance

The Colorado River in the depths of the canyon starts from the head waters of the Green River in Wyoming, passes west through five states, bends south and empties into  the Gulf of California in Mexico.

A light snow shower fell the first afternoon making it too chilly to go do any sightseeing at the south rim.. Day two in the Jeep stopping to view all the panoramic rim overlooks along Desert View Drive became a good trip. The storm had passed and the sky was blue.  

There are some amazing views of the Colorado River as one heads east along that 25-mile drive. Day three using the shuttle bus route from Verkamp’s Visitor Center to Hermit’s Rest was the only option available for folks wishing to explore the last seven miles of stunning overlooks along the south rim. Traffic restrictions have been put in place to keep cars off the road. It is no wonder as the Canyon attracts 4.5 million visitors from all over the world annually.

Ravens soar

Elk roam freely

Squirrels cache pinyon nuts

Hopi House has fine Native American art displays for a hefty price

Hopi sand paintings have spiritual significance (value $2100) 

Zuni pottery ($750) and Navajo rug ($3500)

El Tovar is the south rim Great Lodge

The weather hit a cold spell dropping the temperature to a low of 15ºs. In the motor home the last night we watched a dvd movie and drank hot toddies all cozy and warm by the electric heater. It was a far cry from our backpack hiking adventure  camping in a pup tent and eating canned spaghetti down at the bottom depths of the canyon gorge many, many moons ago. 

Whether one comes to hike, bike, river raft, mule ride, or simply sightsee, the Grand Canyon is still an awe inspiring, magnificent natural wonder with expansive vistas that have endured beyond the ages.  Those with deep pockets for a $60 fee can have the ultimate view for a thrill.

Grand Canyon Skywalk

JR prefers to get his thrills on his own out on a ledge

Each overlook has a majestic beauty all its own.

DISCOVERIES CROSSING THE UTAH BORDER TO PAGE, ARIZONA

From Zion NP in order to reach the Grand Canyon south rim one has to loop around the Grand Escalante Staircase on the Colorado Plateau and cross the Glen Canyon Bridge at the remote town of Page, AZ. We caught three big highlights in the Lake Powell area for a few days while there: Glen Canyon Dam/Lake Powell, Upper Antelope Slot Canyon, and Horseshoe Bend.   To the east along Scenic Drive at the rim of Glen Canyon is a free overlook, where you can park and make an easy "stepped" descent with handrails through some lovely layered rock formations down the side of a cliff.

A lookout below the rocky descent gives you a great view down on to the Glen Canyon Dam and the Colorado River below. The rock formations alone were worth the hike to see this view. Crossing the bridge to see the visitor center displays and 754 ft dam up close added to the adventure. The 1957-1964 construction of the dam backing up Lake Powell reservoir is impressive engineering .

The evening at sunset had good lighting and a glow around Glen Canyon Dam and the Lake Powell Wahweap Marina scenic drive.

The second highlight was a hike through a slot canyon accessible only with a Navajo guide on the reservation at Antelope Canyon. The slot-canyon made out of sandstone, with dramatic lighting when the sun is in the right place, has a multitude of breathtaking shades that looks like the rock itself is glowing. 



Light enters the canyon through small openings at the top and reflects off the sandstone walls to create a wide array of colors. Upper Antelope Canyon, where these images were shot, is probably one of the most photographed slot canyons ever.

Thirdly, just five miles south of Page in Arizona, the Colorado River makes a magnificent horseshoe shaped bend before it rushes towards the south rim of the Grand Canyon.  

WOW it is sooooo far down there
To reach this off the beaten site required a two mile hike. While walking through the desert, you simply don't expect what you are about to see once you arrive at the end of the hike to Horseshoe Bend Overlook. Suddenly a blue (yes blue, not brown) Colorado River makes a 180 degrees turn in front of you deep down in the canyon far below. The drop off...magnificent... is certainly a highlight on anyone’s trip in the Southwest. 

Along the  rim of the canyon without any guard rails I lingered back from the edge and held my breath as JR leaped up on a rocky precipice ledge. I couldn’t stand to watch him being so daring at a 1000ft drop and had to look away. With no fear of heights JR thinks he is invincible, so was able to capture an amazing photo of Horseshoe Bend. As the saying goes, “ A picture is worth a thousand words.”

PEAKS, PLATEAUS, AND CANYONS OF ZION

Immutable yet ever changing, the cliffs of Zion National Park stand resolute, a glowing presence in the late day, a wild calm, as water cascades from the red rock cliffs and cottonwood leaves jitter in the wind. From the beginning people sought the canyon bottom as a desert oasis. Entering the Hwy 9 East Entrance of the park was a thrilling experience. The ranger told us to unhook the rig in order to meet the challenge of all the switchbacks ahead dropping down through the walls of the steep canyon and two tunnels safely.

Our new Terra LX motor home height is 12’6”  so clearing the second one mile tunnel’s 13’ 1” maximum height meant JR had to drive through the arch tunnel down the center with no oncoming traffic. The ranger stopped traffic one way to allow him to pass in the tunnel.  I followed in the Jeep down through the winding curves along the steep canyon cliffs behind JR as we did switchbacks  for 12 miles. The descent was quite an adventure. Stepping out of the motor home at the bottom of the canyon  JR beamed, “ THAT WAS FUN.”  It certainly had added to enhancing his up and coming skills driving our new big Class A rig.  I just wonder if he had white knuckles maneuvering around all those tough curves and that dark one mile tunnel. Being a weekend, the park was crowded with visitors and traffic. It seemed so much more impacted and developed than when we first visited twenty-five years ago. 

Cottonwood trees abound with fall color everywhere

Dinner out in the wonders of nature

At the end of the main canyon scenic drive near Temple of Sinawave JR and I hiked the paved Riverside Walk path along the river. It was lovely with the yellow leaves rustling gently on the cottonwood trees.

 Reaching the Narrows, image hiking up a shallow river in a canyon that is only 20 to 60 wide with 400 foot sheer vertical walls. 

Venturing off the Zion river walk into the actual Narrows has always been on my bucket list. 

Determined to give it a go, I rolled up my pant legs and stepped into the Narrows shallow riverbed on my own with tennis shoes and hiking poles. The water was cold without being offensive, and the folks in the riverbed were fewer than other times of the year. I waded about 75 feet up along the Narrows canyon wall stepping over small rocks.  JR captured the shallow attempt on camera before I wimped out at a stronger current rushing over the rocks. No way was I up for having a chilly plunge. Boy, did my tennis shoes ever squeak full of water on the river walk trail back. 

 Angel's Landing is one of Zion's most spectacular scenic outlooks. It can be reached only by a very demanding hike on the West Rim Trail. Seeing an aerial photo of Angel’s Landing puts this trail hike on par with climbing the backside of Half Dome in Yosemite National Park. 

This climb has shear drops of 1500 feet, but there are chain "railings" to hold on to in the areas where one is dangerously close to the edge. Maybe in another life without being faint of heart or gripped by vertigo we could do Zion's Angel Landing.

Morning light on the canyon peaks at sunrise 

The might and majesty of Zion Canyon from high on the rim to descending tunnels and switchbacks along the colorful rocky cliffs into the valley floor, or from beside the river beneath the ever changing beauty of the cottonwood trees to hiking the chilly waters of the Narrows one will discover the magic awaits, the meanings abound, and the memories endure.